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Strictly Builders Inc
Tile Backsplash Installation: Precision From Substrate to Seal

Family-owned · Jacksonville Local

Tile Backsplash Installation: Precision From Substrate to Seal

Licensed tile work handled start to finish, with strict attention to surface prep and long-term moisture resistance.

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Tile Backsplash Installation That Holds Its Line

Tile backsplash installation lives or dies at the substrate level. Before a single tile goes up, the wall surface has to be sound, flat, and compatible with the adhesive system being used. Drywall, cement board, and existing tile each demand a different approach, and skipping that assessment is exactly how a backsplash starts separating from the wall 18 months after the job. At Strictly Builders Inc, Ryan Alson and his team have spent three years doing this work under a licensed-and-insured operation, and every tile backsplash installation we take on starts with that substrate evaluation, not the tile itself. Call for a free estimate and we'll tell you exactly what your surface requires.

Cost on a backsplash project is driven by surface area, material selection, layout complexity, and what the existing wall requires before installation begins. A simple subway tile run behind a standard range is a very different scope from a full-wall natural stone installation with mitered corners and a custom mosaic accent strip. Glass tile, large-format porcelain, and handmade ceramic each require specific thin-set formulations, adjusted setting times, and grout joint decisions that affect the final look as much as the tile itself. We don't cut corners on curing time or skip the sealer coat to get off the job faster. Every job is different, contact Strictly Builders Inc for an accurate estimate.

What Goes Into a Backsplash Installation

The visible result is only as reliable as the prep work underneath it.

Most failed backsplashes fail at the bond, not the tile. The substrate has to be clean, structurally solid, and within tolerance for flatness before any adhesive is spread. If the wall has moisture damage, active flex, or an incompatible paint layer, we address that first. Cutting tile to a layout that avoids awkward slivers at the field edges requires mapping the space before a single piece is set. Grout joint width, tile orientation, and pattern alignment all get established in the layout phase, not improvised on the wall. We also make sure the tiling work integrates cleanly with adjacent cabinetry, countertop edges, and outlets, because the finish is only as clean as its transitions.
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Our Process

How We Run a Backsplash Project

  1. 01

    Inspect and Prep the Wall

    We assess the substrate for moisture, levelness, and compatibility with the selected adhesive. Damaged drywall gets replaced. Glossy or porous surfaces get primed. The wall has to be right before anything else happens.

  2. 02

    Set the Layout and Cut to Fit

    We establish tile placement from a center point outward, confirming joint spacing and pattern alignment before the first piece is set. Field cuts at outlets, cabinets, and countertop edges are made with precision, not guessed at.

  3. 03

    Grout, Seal, and Inspect

    After the thin-set cures fully, we grout to the specified joint width, clean the face, and apply a penetrating sealer where the material calls for it. We do a final alignment and seal check before we call the job complete.

Material Specs

Tile Types We Install and Why It Matters

01

Subway and Ceramic Tile

The most common backsplash material, but still requires the right thin-set and consistent joint spacing. We install ceramic in straight, stacked, and herringbone patterns with clean grout lines throughout.

02

Glass Mosaic

Glass tile is unforgiving. It magnifies any substrate irregularity and requires a white polymer-modified thin-set to avoid color bleed-through. We've installed glass mosaics in kitchens across the area. Ask Ryan about what that process actually involves.

03

Natural Stone

Marble, travertine, and slate each have different porosity levels and sealing requirements. Natural stone gets a penetrating sealer before grouting to prevent staining, and a second coat after. Skipping that step is how stone backsplashes get ruined.

04

Large-Format Porcelain

Slabs and large tiles require back-buttering and a flat substrate with no more than 1/8" deviation in 10 feet. We use a notched trowel pattern matched to the tile size and confirm lippage on every course.

What Strictly Builders Gets Right on Every Install

  1. 01

    Substrate Assessment Before Any Adhesive Is Spread

    Wall condition determines everything downstream. We check for moisture, flex, and flatness on every project, not just the ones that look questionable.

  2. 02

    Thin-Set Matched to the Tile Material

    Using standard white mastic under glass tile or heavy-body stone is a common mistake that shortens the life of the installation. We spec the adhesive to the material.

  3. 03

    Full Cure Time Before Grouting

    We don't grout the next morning just to close out the job. Thin-set needs adequate cure time, and rushing it causes grout cracking along the joints within months.

  4. 04

    Sealer Applied Where the Material Requires It

    Grout is porous. Natural stone is porous. Both get a penetrating sealer applied correctly and allowed to cure before the space is put back into use.

Backsplash Work Tied to Your Broader Renovation

A backsplash rarely lives in isolation. It connects to kitchen backsplash scope, countertop replacement, cabinet painting, and sometimes drywall repairs behind an old range hood. We handle the full context of the project rather than doing tile work in a vacuum and leaving the surrounding surfaces to someone else. If your kitchen or bathroom remodel involves multiple trades, that's exactly where Strictly Builders Inc is built to operate. One contractor, full scope, no coordination gap between the tile setter and the person patching the wall. That matters more than most homeowners realize until they've hired three separate contractors who don't talk to each other.
subway and ceramic tile work, professional service in Jacksonville, FL

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I put backsplash tile directly on drywall?
Standard drywall is not moisture-resistant and shouldn't be used as a direct tile substrate in wet or high-humidity areas like directly behind a sink. In dry zones above a countertop away from the sink, properly primed standard drywall can work, but we assess each situation individually. For areas with regular water exposure, cement board or a moisture-resistant backer is the correct substrate, and we'll tell you which applies to your specific wall before we start.
What goes behind a tile backsplash in a kitchen?
The right backer depends on the location. Behind a range or on a wall that stays dry, a properly sealed standard or moisture-resistant drywall is often acceptable. Behind a sink, or anywhere water contact is likely, cement board or a waterproofing membrane is the correct substrate. The thin-set won't bond reliably to a deteriorated or incompatible surface, and a failed bond means tiles falling off the wall within a year or two.
How is large-format tile handled differently on a backsplash?
Large tiles amplify any flatness issues in the wall. We check for substrate variation and correct anything beyond 1/8 inch in 10 feet before setting begins. Back-buttering is required to achieve full coverage, and lippage, which is the height difference between adjacent tile edges, has to be monitored on every course. A notched trowel sized to the tile's surface area is used instead of a standard small-notch trowel.
How long does grout need to cure before the backsplash can get wet?
Standard sanded and unsanded grout needs a minimum of 24 to 72 hours before light moisture exposure, with full cure taking up to 28 days for some formulations. Epoxy grout cures faster but is much less forgiving to work with. We don't rush the cure window. Sealing before full cure is completed traps moisture in the joint and causes the sealer to fail prematurely.
Do you handle the electrical outlets and covers during a backsplash installation?
Outlet boxes and switch plates get removed before tile work begins and reinstalled cleanly after grouting. Tiling around an existing outlet location requires precise cuts so the tile sits flush and the cover plate seats properly against the face. We've done this on kitchen backsplash projects alongside our minor electrical scope, so the coordination between the tile and the box depth doesn't get left unresolved.
What's the difference between sanded and unsanded grout, and which is right for my backsplash?
Joint width is the deciding factor. Joints under 1/8 inch get unsanded grout, which is smooth enough to pack into a narrow joint without cracking. Joints at 1/8 inch and wider require sanded grout for structural stability. Using the wrong formulation causes cracking and joint failure over time. We specify grout type based on the tile and the layout pattern, not by default.
What's the difference between sanded and unsanded grout for a backsplash?
Joint width is the deciding factor. Joints under 1/8 inch get unsanded grout, which is smooth enough to pack into a narrow joint without cracking. Joints at 1/8 inch and wider require sanded grout for structural stability. Using the wrong formulation causes cracking and joint failure over time. We specify grout type based on the tile and the layout pattern, not by default.

Start With a Straight Answer on Your Backsplash Project

Ryan Alson and the Strictly Builders Inc team are available seven days a week to assess your space and give you an honest scope.

Call (904) 699-2626

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